Left Bank Restaurants
Many people going to Paris for the first time will be staying in the Latin Quarter or in that general vicinity, so we'll start with restaurants close to the river and then branch out.
Let's get this over with right away: you'll find a large number of restaurants in the tiny pedestrian streets bordered by the Seine to the north, the boulevard Saint Germain to the south, the boulevard Saint Michel to the west, and the rue Saint-Jacques to the east. You'll know this area immediately, because as you get off the metro at Saint Michel, or as you head away from Notre Dame, you'll run into throngs of people walking around in what can only be described as a quaint little area that looks a bit like how Walt Disney might have imagined Paris—complete with itinerant accordion players. The streets to look for here are the rue Xavier Privas, the rue de la Huchette, and the rue de la Harpe, among others. It's very charming: these streets are some of the oldest in Paris, and they wind through a neighborhood teaming with restaurants, bars, and tourist shops. You ought to wonder, though, why if the restaurants are any good almost all of them have guys standing out front trying to get you to enter. Now let me be completely up front about this: I have eaten at a number of these places, and while I've never yet been bowled over by the cuisine, on occasion I've had to 
admit that a couple of these places aren't half bad—but I do remember, for example, that the last time I had couscous at "Au Bon Couscous" it 
wasn't very bon. (When I lived in this neighborhood on one of the tiny pedestrian streets the only restaurants here I frequented were the take-away sandwich shops: they do really nice lamb and beef here.) You're quite likely going to want to go to one of these places just because they look somehow really good or charming or authentic. Well, go ahead if you must. In the summer, especially August, there will be a zillion people walking around here, especially from about 9:00 at night until about 1:00 in the morning. You can eat outside, but unless it's really hot I wouldn't recommend it, simply because of the jostling from the crowds and the musicians who will set up and play in front of you (always, always "Those Were the Days My Friend") and ask for money. (I took the picture at right of the rue de la Harpe looking up toward the boulevard Saint Germain, and I had to lean pretty far out my living room window, so you'd better darned well appreciate it.) The rue de la Parcheminerie and the rue Xavier Privas have what seem to me to be the most interesting dark little cave-like restaurants. Also, just across the rue St. Jacques there's another little neighborhood worth checking out. It won't be anywhere near as crowded, and the streets aren't closed to cars. Look at the rue Galande, rue Dante, and the little streets that run from the boulevard St. Germain toward the Seine. Some cool places and old nightclubs can be found here (including the famous "Caveau des Oubliettes" [and if you don't know what that is, check it out at 52, rue Galande, not quite in this neighborhood, but 100 steps away]).
If you managed not to have dinner in one of the pedestrian streets (and good for you), walk around the surrounding neighborhoods and find a place for yourself. Head down the boulevard Saint Germain, the rue Dante, or the rue Lagrange. You should find something interesting. Now, if you want to check out some of Tom's favorite restaurants in this neighborhood, try...
Polidor, also on Monsieur le Prince (no. 41, in the 6th, Metro Odéon), is terrific. It's extremely popular and crowded. Somewhat hectic. Amazing food. This is one of those places to go and then to tell everyone back home you went there. It's a sure-fire hit.
In the same general vicinity is the somewhat famous, and perhaps a little precious Petit Prince at 12, rue Lanneau in the 5th, Metro Maubert Mutualité (01 43 54 77 26). This is especially good food for the price, with an utterly charming ambiance and in an especially inviting neighborhood, and the restaurant also happens to have a sizeable gay clientele. You're up the slope from the boulevard Saint Germain, the area where you have lots of little twisty streets. You'll like this—really.
If you want vegetarian food, there are more and more vegetarian restaurants in Paris. A recent favorite is Le Grenier de Notre Dame, almost right across the river from the cathedral at 18 rue de la Bûcherie (01.43.28.98.29, metro Cluny-La Sorbonne, Saint-Michel, or Maubert-Mutualité). Fairly extensive menu of creatively served vegetarian combos that are filling and satisfying here, at prices that should be in the 25 euros per person range. This is one of those places where even if you think you have to have meat for every meal, you'll still be satisfied. (I'm working on a whole section on vegetarian restaurants, which I'll try to get up here as soon as I can.)There are more and more vegetarian restaurants in Paris
Good, traditional French cuisine with a sort of nouvelle twist is yours at the Pré Verre (nice pun?), at 19, rue du Sommerard, at the intersection with the rue Thénard (5th arrondissement 01 43 54 59 47—metro Cluny La Sorbonne or Maubert-Mutualité). You'll come away about 40 € lighter after having consumed an excellent three-course meal with a very good bottle of wine and an aperitif. The cochon de lait will melt in your mouth, and the truffarde au chocolat might just make you weep it's so good. Very attractive décor and surroundings.
For a surprisingly inexpensive and downright really good meal, try La Brouette, at 41 rue Descartes (01 43 25 41 10; metro Cardinal-Lemoine), just behind the Place Contrescarpe at the top of the rue Mouffetarde. I say surprising because it doesn't quite look like it'd be all that good, but there you have it. Here you'll find three different menus, the most expensive at 26 euros, and the traditional French fare is served up exactly as it should be. The middle-priced menu (20 euros) seems to offer the best value for the money. A couple doors down is another place where Hemingway lived, and next door is where the poets Rimbaud and Verlaine shacked up. Rimbaud wrote all of his poetry before he was 20. What were you doing?
Marty, 20, Avenue des Gobelins (01 43 31 39 51). The guidebooks will tell you that this is one of the few remaining "neighborhood" bistros where you'll find locals enjoying excellent food. Well, the food is OK—not great, but just OK—but that isn't the reason to come Marty. The real reason is the drama you're likely to find there, whether with the staff or the other customers. Rub the maître d' or the bartender the wrong way and they'll likely start slamming glassware around and muttering under the breath about you; the waiters are just as likely to be either harried or overly apologetic. Other customers talk loudly about their quotidian problems, and sometimes argue among themselves or with the staff. Extremely entertaining. UPDATE June 2005: Just had dinner tonight at Marty with Judith and Terry, and while we had a marvelous time (it was us, after all, and we'd be good anywhere), it was in spite of, and not because of Marty. Judith and Terry had the tuna, which they said was way overdone; my food was just OK. The service, however, was little short of dreadful. Think of all the snotty things you've ever heard about French waiters, and there you have it. But it's one thing to be sickening when you actually know how to do correct service. These people don't, and they did many things simply wrong (such as removing food from the left, of all things), so their bitchiness wasn't even deserved. Think twice before you go to Marty. If anyone has a different opinion, I'd love to hear it. Please leave it here.
Like Marty, but with significantly less drama, is Balzar, 49, rue des Ecoles (01 43 54 13 67, photo below). Another one of the "last of the neighborhood bistros." You'd think that this apparently dying breed would have fewer survivors, but there you have it. Balzar is very good, indeed. The service is attentive and sometimes wry, and the owner is extremely cordial. The food is precise and tasty, and you might even see a celebrity or two here if you're lucky. Expect to pay about 35-45€. Another really good bistro is Vagenende, at 142 blvd Saint Germain. This is a turn of the twentieth century bistro, and it's full of interesting art deco décor and people who look as though they somehow still live in the early years of the previous century. Reasonably priced (28–38 euros, roughly), it's got good food with pretty good service. (Pronounce the name of this place in German and you'll get the name.)
Still in the Latin Quarter, but in the quieter section to the east, is the classy, comfortable, and charming Chez René (14, Boulevard Saint Germain, 5th [01 43 54 30 23; metro Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine]). This restaurant has been around for over 50 years, and it's easy to see why: the classic fare is carefully prepared and even more carefully served; it's relatively reasonably priced (probably between 40 and 50 euros for three courses plus beverages, including apéritif, but you can probably lighten that up somewhat); and the ambiance is muted and seductive. The waiters are friendly in that restrained way that I love about good French restaurants. You'll hear people speaking English in muted tones here: they're not tourists, so try to figure out their story.
A true find is the Restaurant Perraudin, at 157 rue Saint Jacques (01 46 33 15 75; metro Cluny–La Sorbonne), at the top of the hill where the wide and busy boulevard t
urns into a narrow, homier neighborhood street. This was once the haunt of Roland Barthes and his coterie, and they serve traditional French fare, including a dynamite bœuf bourguignon and an unbelievable gigot d'agneau, at unrealistically low prices. Careful, though: as an indicator of how good they are, they're actually closed on Saturday and Sunday. Expect to pay on the order of 25 euros here. One of the best-selling—and hence stupid—guide books declares that Perraudin is stodgy and tired, but that guide book has itself been around so long that, well, you get the picture. Go to Perraudin and ignore everyone's advice but mine (this applies, by the way, in all situations). If you can't make it into Perraudin, try the Au Port Salut, just two doors down at 163bis (01 46 33 63 21). The food is almost as good, the atmosphere very nice and friendly, and if anything it's just a tad cheaper.
Tom's Favorite Restaurants on the Left Bank
Tired of French food? Then go to a different country. No, really, head over to the Casa Bini, at 36 rue Grégoire de Tours in the Saint-Germain district (01 46 34 05 60, metro Odéon or Mabillon). This excellent Italian restaurant is not located in the more tourist-plagued, plastic-and-neon laden block of Grégoire de Tours located just off the rue St. André des Arts, but in the quiet district up the slope toward the top of the street. Although they specialize in various forms of carpaccio here, you'll also find very nicely done pastas and meat dishes. Although not cheap, it's worth the 40 or so euros you'll spend on two or three courses with wine.
Now if you trust that snobby British guide, which I do not, you might like Brasserie Fernand, at 13 rue Guisarde in the 6th (01.43.54.61.47, metro Mabillon), but Tom didn't think it was all that hot. It's perfectly fine, actually, and it has that charm of the really crowded place where they cram you in with other people and you get to talk to them and they're all very nice and all, but the food is good, but not good enough for the price. Two of us came away from there 98 euros lighter, and while we enjoyed our meals, we felt that a reasonable price for what we had would have been more in the neighborhood of 65 euros. Just so's you know.
In the same general category, in the same general price, but in a completely different neighborhood is Brasserie Le Bourbon (1, place du Palais-Bourbon, 7th arrondissement [01 45 51 58 27, metro Assemblée Nationale]). The menu is moderate but well chosen and the wine list is carefully designed to accompany it. Here you'll find things such as "faux filet de race" (which is a cut like sirloin; the "race" part is sort of heritage beef—get it). The entrées are very nice; the deserts are better. You're more than likely to see politicians and journalists here, since you're just a stone's throw from the Assemblée Nationale. Listen up, and maybe you'll hear some good political gossip.
La Closerie des Lilas. 171, boulevard du Montparnasse, in the 6th arrondissement (01 40 51 34 50). Hemingway used to hang out here, and if you go into the bar you can see his name in the wood on the bar near the left side. The restaurant is pretty to very expensive and somewhat uppity, but it's extremely good and the service is impeccable. This is one of those standard, great restaurants. Don't steal one of the ashtrays—they're the neatest I've ever seen. The bar isn't too expensive, and you can drink there without eating, which might be fun. There'll probably be some snobby young British character tending bar. I don't know why this is. Also in the Montparnasse vicinity is the famous La Coupole, once the haunt of Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, and the existentialist set (also see the Hanging Out link for more info on cafés in this area). It's got a brilliant art deco interior, wry and attentive waiters in smart black and white attire, a traditional menu that will certainly please, and, strangely, the staff all gather around the table and sing "joyeux anniversaire" (happy birthday) to those celebrating another year.
Couscous. You must do this at least once. There are a lot of couscous restaurants in the pedestrian quarter just off of St. Michel between St. Germain and the Seine (rue Xavier Privas, rue de la Huchette, etc.)—you'll know the area when you see it. Most of these are good, 
but the best one is, in my humble but alas! correct opinion, La Couscoussière now (2009) also known as Le Chalet de l'Olivier (and yes, that's my finger in the photo). If you don't know what couscous is, just go here and order it and find out—you will not be disappointed. Basically, it's a North African stew, and it's served over that grain (couscous) that they're starting to promote in the U.S. (and check out a reader's correction here). Couscous here, however, is not simply the grain: it's the stew, consisting of vegetables and your choice (or not) of meats in a savory sauce served over the grain. La Couscoussière is at 83, rue du Cardinal Lemoine, which is a stone's throw (even if you're very weak) from the Place Contrescarpe, which you ought to know anyway, because it's a good place to grab a late night drink. Hemingway lived right across the street from this restaurant, by the way (check out the sign across and down the street just a tad). The couscous at La Couscousserie is among the best I've ever had, and your total bill, with an appetizer, couscous, desert, and drink, shouldn't be more than 25€ or so.
You'll find other interesting places to cadge a meal on the Rue Mouffetard. See Chez Georgette, above, and look down the rue du Pot de Fer (pictured here), for some good little places where, if the weather's nice, you can sit outside. There are many good, interesting, and inexpensive restaurants on this street and on the little side streets leading around here. Have a drink at one of the cafés on the Place Contrescarpe at the top of the hill (metro Monge). Check out also the Rue Grégoire des Tours (see Casa Bini, above, but stay at the lower end to find a lot of other small places worth a look). Metro Odéon. Choose something that doesn't have too much plastic in it. It'll be fine. You'll find a mix of Greek and Normandy here. Also go just around the corner onto the rue St. André des Arts, and you'll find some interesting, trendy, and generally perfectly OK places. Rue St. André des Arts is a good place to be seen. There's also an anarchist restaurant on the boulevard Arago (closest metro is probably "Gobelins") that seems to appear and disappear at infrequent intervals. If it's open—and you'll know it to see it—go in. It'll be unusually intimidating, and people will probably yell at you, but it's actually their idea of irony. It will be cheap and politically interesting, maybe traumatic.
If it's a warm summer evening head on over to Chez Lena et Mimile, a truly charming bistrot in the quiet part of the Latin Quarter (32 rue Tournefort, 5th arrondissement, phone 01 47 07 72 47, metro Censier-Daubenton or Monge). Lena and Mimile have what might be the absolute best terrasse in the city for outdoor dining, and it's well worth waiting for. Because the restaurant is located at the bottom of a hill, the terrasse affords a terrific view of a quiet and charming neighborhood. The food is very good, nicely prepared, and the staff helpful and friendly.
One of Tom's new favorite restaurants is—really—Le Quatorze Juillet, at 99 rue Didot (14th [01 40 44 91 19] metro Plaisance or Alésia). This place is run by two very young people with a taste for traditional food slightly twisted. Thus, you'll find an absolutely astonishing croustillant de chèvre with mint and figs in filo pastry, for example. The truffon dessert is itself worth the trip to the 14th if you have any sense (chocolate sense, that is) at all. Go here. It's relatively inexpensive, fun surroundings with friendly people, and truly excellent food. Expect to spend about 30€.
La Frégate is rapidly becoming one of my favorite placesIf you're out museuming (that's a verb; shut up), you might try La Frégate, a nautically themed brasserie-restaurant that's right next to the Musée d'Orsay and more or less just across from the Louvre. It's situated at 1, rue du Bac in the 7th, right where the Quai Anatole France meets the Quai Voltaire (01 42 61 23 77, metro rue du Bac). This place is slightly upscale but not fussy, and while it's no bargain, it's not horribly expensive, either—think 25 euros for a really, really good lunch. It has truly impeccable service, and the waiters attending to you will be charming, very professional, and even slightly friendly. In this carefully preserved turn-of-the-century (that's turn of the 20th century) locale you can still find writers and even some artists from the nearby Ecole des Beaux Arts. This is becoming one of my favorite places.
OK, here's a place I've always wanted to go to and haven't yet made it, so you go and tell me how it is: it's called Allard, and it's at 41, rue Saint-André-des-Arts (01.43.26.48.23), Metro Saint Michel or Odéon. It's right in the middle of the incredibly hopping Saint-André-des-Arts scene, which is mostly young and, well, party oriented, but Allard looks strangely rustic, and the menus they've posted in the window in the past look extremely interesting. So, someone go there, and then tell me how it was. (Some folks have written in saying they really like Allard, although one person mentioned it was somewhat expensive. Let's hear from others!) October, 2005 update: Sandy gives us the definitive word on Allard: "Allard has a wonderful atmosphere and friendly waiters, but get the main room, not the small room in the back— it's claustrophobic. The food is incredible and huge helpings! The only thing we've eaten there is the roast chicken with mushrooms and potatoes, as it's just wonderful! I think that our meal, with a bottle of wine and dessert, came to $125 Euros... nice for a special occasion." February, 2006—Jock writes: "Allard is a really wonderful restaurant. We were there a few months ago. It is a little cramped but good food and very nice mix of locals and others - not just Americans. We sat next to some businessmen from Sweden and a large group of Parisians celebrating a birthday. It was a very nice experience."
Aux artistes. 63 rue Falguière (01 43 22 05 39). Metro Pasteur or Falguìère, but Pasteur is closer (14 euros—think about that: 3 courses for 14 euros). I've saved the best for last, because this is my favorite restaurant in the world, and it's impossible to explain why. The food is very good—not great, but very good; the ambiance is not enchanting, but it's certainly charming. There's just something, well, I don't know what about this place, and since it's been around since the 1950s, they must be doing something right. Go here, but don't tell anyone about it because we don't want it to be overrun, but I promise you will adore this place. Everyone I've ever taken here has added it to their personal list of favorites. You have to write down your own order on the little slip of paper that will be sitting on your table, and make sure to write down what you want to drink as well. Note that wine is not included here, but get the Réserve—it costs about 2 euros more than the red junk they serve ordinarily, but it's worth it. The "menu" is on the right-hand page of the folder-type thing they give you, and there are about a million choices. Do not oder à la carte. Get the Boeuf Bourguignon if you're not redmeated out. The chicken dishes (poulet) are all good, too. People say the steak tartar is remarkable, but I can't deal with that. I hear the brains aren't bad, and make sure to look at the ceiling. This place has recently found its way into the guide books, which is disappointing, and there will probably be a lot of British and maybe some American tourists there (although recently that hasn't been the case, but the little hand-written sign pointing out the location of the light switch for the restroom still says "Lumière/light"). In general, you want to go late here; it'll be jammed until about 10:00 and sometimes even later, especially in the summer. This is a very good place to have a late dinner. All in all, it may well be the best restaurant in the world for food quality, price, and ambiance. The only thing it doesn't have going for it is location, since there isn't really that much else around it (although the neighborhood has been coming up lately). Really: just go here, and then tell me how much you loved it.
Readers Chime In
An anonymous reader tells us we have to check out La Coupole, which is also listed on the "Hanging Out" page (102, bd du Montparnasse, 01.43.20.14.20, about 40 euros), and I couldn't agree more. It's one of Montparnasse's old stand-bys, and many a famous writer called the large and open restaurant a second home.
Frank writes of Le Twickenham that they have "Absolutely transcendental moules frites in a very sweet cream and shallot sauce (I think they were shallot bits, but there were tons of them). Ooh, I get chills thinking of this dish. A better experience than the moules provençales we had in Brussels (every day) ten years ago (a lifetime fave). Good fries, hot but not exceptional. Place is absolutely average in ambiance, waiter was helpful and gracious, very professional (68 Bd. Saint Germain, 5th arrondissement, metro Maubert Mutualité 01 43 54 52 44).
Terry recommends A La Petite Chaise at 36, rue de Grenelle in the seventh arrondissement (01 42 22 13 35 metro rue du Bac or Saint Sulpice). They went early and "there were no patrons at that time. The servers were almost overjoyed to help us. By the time we finished, the place did start to fill up." The restaurant was two blocks from Terry's hotel.
Galen says that one should go to Perraudin (see above) for the Au Gratin alone, and adds that when they went there the owner was so nice he even offered them a complimentary Kir at the bar because they had to wait a little while ("an unexpected delight," writes Galen).
Another anonymous reader recommends Le Bec Rouge, at 46 bis boulevard du Montparnasse (metro Montparnasse-Bienvenue or Falguière: 01 42 22 45 54). S/he writes: Very nice cooking of alasacian inspiration. A great 3 courses meal for 24 Euros, "très bon rapport qualité prix".
Jane speaks very highly of La Marsa, at 45 rue Gay Lussac, in the 5th (01 46 33 11 85; metro [RER] Luxembourg): "This little fish restaurant is situated in the Latin Quarter just round the corner from the Relais Saint Jacques hotel. The Gambas in Pastis was wonderful, staff lovely and very patient with my restricted French."
An anonymous reader recommends Chez L'Ami Jean, at 27 Rue Malar in the 7th (metro Tour-Maubourg: 01 47 05 86 89). He/she writes: "This is a very small and crowded Basque bistro with mostly French people seated. There was one other American couple there the night we went. Great ambiance, friendly waiters, large portions of food—altogether a wonderful experience. Not cheap, but worth it."
James from Orlando points out Tom's error on couscous: "when talking about a restaurant named La Couscoussière, you refer to couscous as a grain. It is only a grain in that it is made from a grain, but it really is just very tiny beads of pasta. Couscous is typically made from semolina wheat flour that is moistened and shaped; there also is an Israeli version (p'titim or in the U.S., simply "Israeli style couscous") that is larger (more like Italian orzo)." (return)
OK. I've told you my favorite places, and other readers have given theirs; now it's your turn to add something to the guide. Do you have a favorite place that you always go to? Whether it's a 4-star extravaganza or that little hole in the wall that serves your basic meat and potatoes kind of meal, Tom's Guide wants to know about it. Click here to suggest a restaurant of your own.
Tom's Guide to Paris. Copyright 2009 by Thomas DiPiero. All rights reserved.